teal takes on… Newport

If you haven’t traveled to Newport, Rhode Island — get it on your bucket list. Stat. Chris and I had the opportunity to live there for 10 months while he was at the Naval War College, and we took full advantage of ‘The City by the Sea.’

From delicious seafood to colonial architecture to lighthouses, tennis, polo and yachting — this city of just over 24,000 people is beautiful and impressive. I realize not everyone will be lucky enough to call Newport home for the better part of a year, so I’m breaking it down for you–

5 things to do, eat and drink in Newport, RI

To Do

1) Cliff Walk: Whether you walk just a few hundred yards or hike the entire 3.5 miles, this a truly a ‘can’t miss’ in Newport. You’ll take in gorgeous ocean views and see some of Newport’s famous Gilded Age mansions including Beechwood, Rosecliff, Marble House, The Breakers, Ochre Court, and Rough Point. Head’s up: the second half of the walk is partially unpaved and a bit more challenging.

breakers
View of The Breakers from the Cliff Walk

2) Tour the mansions: In the 19th century, Newport was where America’s wealthy came to ‘summer’. They built ‘summer cottages’ mansions, where many families lived just six weeks out of the year.

Touring The Breakers during the holidays
Touring The Breakers during the holidays

Thanks to some very thoughtful friends, whose wedding gift to us was a membership to the Preservation Society of Newport County, Chris and I were able to tour these famous mansions several times. (If a membership doesn’t make sense for you, individual, 2-house and 5-house tickets are also available.)

If you only have time to tour one mansion, I’d recommend seeing The Breakers. This is the grandest of the Newport mansions. A summer-house built by Cornelius Vanderbilt II, The Breakers boasts 70 rooms on five floors. The self-guided audio tour is interesting and takes about an hour, depending on your pace.

If more mansion tours fit into your itinerary… you should check out Rosecliff. You might recognize it — completed in 1902, it’s ballroom was used to film scenes for the 1974 film version of ‘The Great Gatsby’ (with Robert Redford and Mia Farrow). Chris and I were lucky enough to attend a ball there — and I must say, going to a ball in a 19th century mansion in a gown and with a handsome Naval officer on your arm CERTAINLY makes you feel like a princess!

img_1976

The Elms and Marble House are stunning as well!

3) Polo: If you find yourself in Newport on a Saturday in the summer/fall, take in a polo match. My only experience with polo, was what I’d seen in ‘Pretty Woman.’ And honestly, that portrayal isn’t far off! The Newport International Polo Series features matches of teams from around the world & from major US cities playing against USA / Newport.

We decided to go on a whim to see Team USA vs. Jamaica and were shocked when tickets set us back just $12/person with FREE parking. As people who’ve spent many a Saturday at college football games, these incredibly reasonable prices floored us! We had no idea what to expect. You can essentially tailgate right along the edge of the field as the match is being played. Attire included everything from casual shorts and t-shirts to seersucker, lots of Lilly Pulitzer and big hats. If we were to do it all over again, I’d opt for the latter. And yes, we even went on to the field to ‘stomp the divots’ at half time.

4) Mimosa Cruise on Adirondack II: Newport is a sailing town, called by some the ‘Sailing Capital of the World.’ For 53 years it was home to sailing’s most famous race, America’s Cup. We took friends on the Adirondack II, an 80-foot schooner, for a morning mimosa cruise. We sailed around Narragansett Bay and were entertained with stories about Newport’s history as we saw a bayside view of the mansions, Fort Adams (a 19th century military fort), old lighthouses, even Hammersmith Farm — the childhood home of Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis. Tickets are $32. Mimosas beer and wine are offered for $3-$4 and you’re welcome to bring your own picnic.

5) Newport Vineyards: We took many of our visitors to this winery. Tours are free and last about 30 minutes. A tasting is $12 ($15 if you’d like a wine glass to take) for five selections. The tasting room is gorgeous. After you’ve tried a few wines you can enjoy a glass or two outside amongst the grapevines. My favorites are the Rochambeau, Gemini Red and Dry Rosé.

Honorable Mentions: St. Mary’s Church (where JFK married Jacqueline Bouvier in 1953), take a water taxi to Fort Adams, Newport Gulls game at Cardine’s Field

To Eat

lobster-roll1) Midtown Oyster Bar: This restaurant is relatively new to the Newport restaurant scene, but arguably my favorite. The atmosphere. The food. The drinks. I love everything about this place. Some of my favorites include: tuna tartare tacos, spicy salmon ceviche, ‘Rocky Point’ clam chowder (Rhode Island style, with a clear broth), mussels frites, grilled Norwegian salmon and the BEST lobster roll in Newport.

If you’re a fan of bubbles (like me), head there on a Tuesday night for Champagne & Shells. From 4pm to 10pm you’ll get 3 complimentary oysters when you order a glass of champagne. Up your game with a bottle of bubbly, and they’ll shuck a dozen oysters for you to enjoy!

2) Perro Salado: We had several visitors when we lived in Newport, and I’m quite sure we took each and every one of them to Perro Salado. The Mexican restaurant is located in the historic Decatur House, built more than 300 years ago!

Anyone who knows me, knows margaritas and guacamole are considered one of my food groups. These didn’t disappoint. The margaritas are fresh and the guacamole is served with chips and fried plantains. Sticky ribs and avocado fries are also popular choices for appetizers. The full menu offers lamb fajitas and ancho chile dusted scallops (to name just a few). I usually ordered the tostada with tamarind braised beef short rib from the ‘Taqueria Menu.’ Just $10 and I usually had more than enough to take home with me.

Portuguese Seafood Stew at Corner Cafe
Portuguese Seafood Stew at Corner Cafe

3) Corner Cafe: this is a great spot for breakfast and brunch (expect a long wait), but they also serve dinner Wednesday through Saturday. The menu changes weekly and is usually posted on their Facebook Page. This was one of our favorite date night spots in Newport. Try to grab a table with a window seat — so cozy! My go-to for dinner is their Portuguese Seafood Stew — its chock-full of mussels, shrimp, cod and chourico in a spicy tomato broth. So delicious. Another plus, it’s BYOB! So pick up your favorite bottle of wine or a 6-pack of New England craft beer before you head that way.

Lobster Special at Benjamin's
Lobster Special at Benjamin’s

4) Benjamin’s: We went to Benjamin’s our first night in Newport and returned often (it was oh-so-conveniently right across the street from our condo). This spot serves breakfast, lunch and dinner (kitchen is open ’til midnight). You won’t see many tourists here, it’s a favorite amongst locals. The restaurant has three levels for dining. On the first floor (where we usually found ourselves) you’ll find the raw bar and a very casual feel. The second floor dining room is a little more upscale, but offers the same menu. Meanwhile, the third floor (known as the Crow’s Nest) is an open air bar, only open when the weather is nice.

Benjamin’s is a the perfect place to get your seafood fix for a great price. Try the daily ‘Early Bird Special’ – $13.95 for a whole lobster, prime rib or the fish of the day. They also offer ‘Raw Bar Tuesdays’ – $1 oysters, $1 shrimp and 50-cent clams.

5) The Mooring: Arguably one of Newport’s most well-known restaurants, The Mooring sits right on the water. The views are beautiful from nearly every table, but we usually came on a whim (and without reservations) and found ourselves eating at the gorgeous bar (with seating on three sides). Everything we had here was fantastic — from fresh fish to sandwiches. A favorite here is the ‘Bag of Doughnuts’ (lobster, crab and shrimp fritters) dunked in the Classic Mooring Clam Chowder.

Honorable Mentions: Breakfast at Belle’s Cafe, cheeseburger at Mission, ramen at Boru, BBQ pulled pork nachos at Smokehouse, a scoop of Newport Mud ice cream at Kilwin’s

To Drink

1) Castle Hill Inn: A meal at this award-winning restaurant is divine, but you can experience its breathtaking views of the Narragansett Bay for a fraction of a price by having a drink on the lawn. Settle into one of the iconic Adirondack chairs, which are first-come, first-serve. We witnessed a proposal (she said yes!) one of the evenings we visited.

2) White Horse Tavern: Don’t miss The White Horse Tavern! It’s said to be the oldest tavern in America, around since 1673. The cocktails are delicious (order an Old Fashioned or try the Dark ‘n Stormy), but the bartenders are even better storytellers! I never tire of the tales they tell about this place! If it’s a cold fall or winter evening, cozy up by the huge fireplace in the downstairs bar. Otherwise, head to the upstairs bar and try to nab (what was reportedly) Jackie Kennedy’s favorite table, in a little alcove right next to the bar (the bartenders will know).

3) Wharf Pub: Aptly named, this restaurant and bar is on Bowen’s Wharf. It’s a cozy spot for a meal and is famous for its tater tots (they have five varieties). When we visited our ordered usually consisted of  wine (for me), craft beer (for Chris) and the cheese and charchuterie tray to share. We played Bingo here a couple of nights — it was a blast!

4) Norey’s: This bar on Broadway has an impressive beer and wine list. We loved to come here Thursday night’s for live jazz bands.

5) Our rooftop — Several establishments claim to provide the best waterfront views in Newport. And while not everyone can frequent the rooftop at Harborview Condominiums, I’d argue it is home to one of the best views in town. Drinks were pretty cheap to, as we’d just bring them up one flight of stairs from our place! We were SO lucky to have lived here and were happy to share the view with friends and family every chance we got!

Honorable Mentions: Pour Judgement, the tiki bar at Salvation Cafe, Officer’s Club deck at Naval Station Newport (sorry, you can only check out this place if you’ve got access to the Navy base)

This is just a taste of an amazing place. I’d move back to this charming, idyllic city in a heartbeat!

teal takes on… 3,262 miles

In June, Chris and I made the drive (actually — he drove, I rode) from Newport, Rhode Island to San Diego, California.

3,262 miles.

From the northeast to the southwest.

Atlantic to Pacific.

It doesn’t get much more ‘cross-country’ than that.

screen-shot-2016-10-13-at-9-57-00-pm

But as adventure-seekers, Chris and I saw the many hours we’d spend in our SUV as an opportunity rather than a burden. After all, we’d get the chance to visit new places and see friends and family along the way.

Disclaimer: This may be a long post because, well… it was a REALLY long drive.

Day 1: Newport to New York — 185 miles, then New York JFK — London Gatwick

I know, I know… England isn’t exactly on the way to California.  In fact, it’s completely the opposite. Long story, short — we scored ridiculously inexpensive flights on Norwegian Air and decided to go for it.

Days 2-6: England

We visited our dear friends (Kevin & Sonya) who are living just outside London, in the village of Beaconsfield. I spent a semester in London during college, so experiencing a smaller community in the countryside was different than the hustle and bustle of the city, but oh-so-charming. We also spent some time seeing the sights in London and Oxford. I’ll be sure to write more about our trip across the pond in another post.

Day 7: London Gatwick — New York JFK, then New York, New York to Philadelphia Suburbs — 103 miles

Our flight back to the states didn’t land until late, but we decided it best to hop in the car and get away from NYC so we wouldn’t have to fight New York traffic the next morning. We made it past Philly to the suburbs before calling it a night.

Day 8: Pennsylvania to Lexington, Kentucky — 634 miles

This was a MONSTER of a drive, but we wanted to make it to Lexington.

Lexington is home to the Kentucky Wildcats, great bourbon and my amazing friend Leslie, and her family. Leslie was my roommate the semester I spent in Washington DC at Georgetown. We were fast friends and have stayed in touch ever since.

Day 9: Lexington, Kentucky to Louisville, Kentucky — 78 miles

As a pediatric resident with two kids, Leslie is crazy-busy so I was grateful we were able to time our visit for the ONE day she had off in the entire month of June. We spent the day catching up before heading an hour or so down the road to Louisville.

Louisville is home to my friends Tiffany and Ryan. Tiffany is a meteorologist, and the two of us worked at competing television stations when I was a morning news anchor in Waco, Texas. As if the day couldn’t get any better, my brother Spencer and his girlfriend Alyssa made the trip down to Louisville from Indianapolis. The six of us spent the evening at the historic Churchill Downs (home to the Kentucky Derby) for ‘Downs After Dark’ — an evening of horse races, live music and of course Mint Juleps. It was fantastic, except our luck when it came to betting on the horse races (I suppose making picks based on the horse’s name I liked best wasn’t exactly a good strategy).

Day 10: Louisville, Kentucky to Nashville Tennessee — 176 miles

We spent the majority of the day in Louisville before a two-and-a-half hour drive to Nashville to see friends Rebecca Schleicher and Drew Cunningham. They moved to Music City about a year ago. Rebecca and I worked together at the NBC-TV station in Waco.

Day 11: Nashville

It was a Monday, so while our hosts were at work, we explored Nashville! We began in Drew and Rebecca’s neighborhood, 12South — a trendy neighborhood where we hit up The Frothy Monkey for breakfast and coffee and Draper James (Reese Witherspoon’s boutique clothing store). We continued our exploration in Centennial Park and the Vanderbilt University campus (where we even managed to sneak inside the football stadium) and grabbed lunch at Puckett’s Grocer (one of Chris’ favorite Nashville spots).

img_2049 img_1877img_2047 img_2160-1

After Drew and Rebecca returned from work, we hopped in an Uber to Broadway Ave., home to a number of Music City honky-tonks. We ventured to Acme Feed & Seed, Tootsie’s Orchid Lounge and a few other spots. It’s Nashville, so obviously we listened to fantastic live music everywhere we went.

img_2161-1

Day 12: Nashville, Tennessee to Little Rock, Arkansas — 349 miles

On the road again — this time to Little Rock (by way of Memphis). We made it to Memphis by midday, where we had lunch at Pearl’s Oyster House on Main with Chris’ friend Matt (the two played sprint football at the Naval Academy and spent time in the same helicopter squadron). We wished we had more time to check out Memphis, but were aiming to make it to Little Rock before the Clinton Presidential Library closed for the evening (we made it). After learning about the lives and careers of Bill & Hill we were ready for some food (Lost Forty) and trivia (Flying Saucer) before turning in.

Day 13: Little Rock, Arkansas to Oklahoma City, Oklahoma — 372 miles

For those who don’t know, three of my husbands favorite things are Presidential Libraries, craft beer and National Parks. We’d already hit up the Clinton Library, and I happened to discover the only craft brewery IN a National Park on the way to our next overnight. Enter, Hot Springs National Park, known for it’s historic bath houses built around the hot springs. After a short hike in the park, we made our way to the brewery and distillery (housed in a former bath house).  We also managed to chow down on some Arkansas BBQ before heading on to Oklahoma.

 

We arrived in OKC fairly late, but did have time to walk around the Brickyard neighborhood and see the canal before getting some shuteye.

Day 14: Oklahoma City to Santa Fe, New Mexico — 534 miles

Another long day in the car. We stretched our legs and filled up on Tex-Mex in Amarillo, Texas (I couldn’t convince Chris to try the Big Texan Challenge).

Upon arriving, we relaxed with margaritas and live music, did some window shopping (the jewelry the southwest is famous for isn’t exactly my thing) and grabbed dinner.

Day 15: Santa Fe to Scottsdale, Arizona — 468 miles

More time exploring New Mexico’s capital city — we visited the Rail Yard District, stopped in a few art galleries and (on a hundred degree day) had Hatch Green Chile Stew.

Scottsdale was hot, dry and really hot. We hit up a few Happy Hour spots before collapsing in bad.

Day 16: Scottsdale to San Diego, California — 363 miles

At this point we’d been living out of suitcases for more than two weeks — we decided it wouldn’t hurt to do a little relaxing. We got a late check-out and soaked up the Arizona sun at the pool before starting the final leg of our cross-country journey. Several hours and a couple of border security checkpoints later and we’d made it to San Diego….where North Park would be home for (just) 3 and a half months.

By the way, serious props to my husband who drove every one of those 3,262 miles. I thank you (as does anyone who was on our route during those 16 days).

teal takes on… a BIG move.

I’ve moved a lot in my adult life.  This, after spending the first 18 years of my life in Mason City, Iowa. (A great place to grow up!)

I spent my college years in Illinois, Orlando (thanks to a stint with the WDW College Program), Washington DC and London.  Grad school took me to NYC.

Graduation day at Columbia University.
Graduation day at Columbia University.

My career in TV sent me back home to Iowa, down to Waco, Texas where I picked up two-stepping, an affinity for the word ya’ll, and a pair of cowboy boots, and eventually to the Windy City (Chicago) where I rediscovered a need for the coats and mittens I had in storage for a few years.

All in all, 9 cities in about 10 years.

My husband has lived in nearly as many places (thanks in large part to his career as a Navy pilot). The Navy took us to Newport, RI exactly one day after our wedding. Why wade into military life when you can dive in head-first?!

After a very quick four months in San Diego, our next BIG adventure begins in just 17 days. We are headed to JAPAN, which will be home for the next 2-3 years.

As you might imagine, I’ll be ‘taking on’ a lot in Japan. Yes, plenty of adventures — I’ve got many cities, countries and cuisines on my bucket list — but I’ll also be taking on my first deployment. No doubt, a big challenge ahead.

The best advice I’ve received thus far? Keep busy.

My response? No problem. #letsdothis