When people think of ‘Japan’ — I’d guess sushi is one of the first things that comes to mind.
That, and maybe anime, Toyota, Mario Bros., cherry blossoms and karate.
Chowing down on some amazing fish was a priority when we moved to Japan four weeks ago, and I’ve definitely indulged. Here — is just a ‘taste’ of my experience with fish in Japan… cooked, raw and even LIVE.
Sushi-Go-Round
First up, a sushi-go-round (also known as conveyer belt sushi or kaiten-zushi in Japanese) in Yokohama.
Yes, these exist in the states — but I’d never been to one.
For those unfamiliar, a sushi-go-round is exactly what it sounds like — a sushi restaurant where the plates with the sushi are placed on a rotating conveyor belt that passes every table and seat. If you see something you like, you take the plate and eat it. Plates are different colors or designs based on price. At the end of your meal, the plates are added up and you’re presented with the final bill.
If you don’t see what you’re looking for as the fish and appetizers stream past, you can make a special order on a touch screen computer. At some restaurants that special order is delivered on a ‘sushi train’ on a track above the main conveyor belt. It stops right at your seat!
I have a feeling we will frequent sushi-go-round spots like this one often during our time here in Japan. Fun, delicious and relatively expensive!
Fishing For Dinner
The next night we made our way to a restaurant called Zauo (enough vowels for you?) in Tokyo’s Shinjuku district. Here, you catch your own dinner. That’s right. They seat you in a giant boat in the middle of a pond in the restaurant, hand you fishing poles and bait — and it’s time to ‘Go Fish’.
It’s in your best interest to do the catching. If the fish just aren’t biting you can order of the menu (but it will be more expensive).
We managed to reel in a Flounder and a Sea Bream. Both were big enough fish that we could have them cooked two ways. We had half of each grilled and the other half prepared as sashimi (raw fish sliced into thin pieces). It was fantastic — and despite growing up on a lake, I’m quite sure it was the first time I caught (let alone ate) my own fish!
Sushi Dai at Tokyo’s world-famous Tsukiji Fish Market
Just seven hours after finishing our fishing adventure we were up and on our way to the next big thing! We woke up just after 3:30 in the morning and hoofed it (trains don’t run that early) to the Tsukiji Fish Market where we got in line at Sushi Dai. We weren’t alone. Not even close. When we arrived at the restaurant just after 4 a.m. we found 70-80 people already lined up ahead of us… and the place didn’t even open for another hour!
We waited. And waited. And waited as hundreds more got in line behind us.
A little background — Tsukiji Fish Market is the largest seafood market in the world. While this is a legitimate place of business with 900+ wholesale dealers, most tourists find their way to Tsukiji for two things: the tuna auction and a sushi breakfast. Yes, really. Sushi. For breakfast.
We arrived far too late for the tuna auction, as all 120 tickets for the public were gone before 3 a.m. (maybe next time?) Meantime, there are dozens of sushi restaurants open for breakfast. We decided to try our luck at Sushi Dai, considered one of the best in all of Japan.
After 4-and-a-half hours in line, we made it into the tiny restaurant which has just 12 seats. For 4,000 yen (about $40) we had the Omakase (trust the Chef) set. We were not disappointed. The 4+ hour wait was SO worth it.
4.5 hours–we made it!
Hot tea & the best miso soup I’ve ever had
O-toro (Fatty Tuna)
Suzuki (Sea Bass)
Kinmetai (Snapper)
Uni (Sea Urchin)
Saury (Mackerel)
Aoyagi (Clam)
Sawara (Spanish Mackerel)
Maguro-zuke (Marinated Tuna)
Sake (Salmon) from Hokkaido (Northern Japan)
Ikura (Salmon Roe)
Note: Watch Jiro Dreams of Sushi on Netflix for more insight on the art of sushi here in Japan. It’s a fantastic documentary.
Meantime… I mentioned LIVE seafood. So far I’ve had live octopus and prawn (video evidence below). This happened at Nakamura’s, a very popular sushi restaurant with our friends here in Japan. I’ve been twice since moving here and we have reservations next week!
Poll: Has this post made you hungry for sushi? Or — not so much?
If you haven’t traveled to Newport, Rhode Island — get it on your bucket list. Stat. Chris and I had the opportunity to live there for 10 months while he was at the Naval War College, and we took full advantage of ‘The City by the Sea.’
From delicious seafood to colonial architecture to lighthouses, tennis, polo and yachting — this city of just over 24,000 people is beautiful and impressive. I realize not everyone will be lucky enough to call Newport home for the better part of a year, so I’m breaking it down for you–
5 things to do, eat and drink in Newport, RI
To Do
1) Cliff Walk: Whether you walk just a few hundred yards or hike the entire 3.5 miles, this a truly a ‘can’t miss’ in Newport. You’ll take in gorgeous ocean views and see some of Newport’s famous Gilded Age mansions including Beechwood, Rosecliff, Marble House, The Breakers, Ochre Court, and Rough Point. Head’s up: the second half of the walk is partially unpaved and a bit more challenging.
View of The Breakers from the Cliff Walk
2) Tour the mansions: In the 19th century, Newport was where America’s wealthy came to ‘summer’. They built ‘summer cottages’ mansions, where many families lived just six weeks out of the year.
Touring The Breakers during the holidays
Thanks to some very thoughtful friends, whose wedding gift to us was a membership to the Preservation Society of Newport County, Chris and I were able to tour these famous mansions several times. (If a membership doesn’t make sense for you, individual, 2-house and 5-house tickets are also available.)
If you only have time to tour one mansion, I’d recommend seeing The Breakers. This is the grandest of the Newport mansions. A summer-house built by Cornelius Vanderbilt II, The Breakers boasts 70 rooms on five floors. The self-guided audio tour is interesting and takes about an hour, depending on your pace.
If more mansion tours fit into your itinerary… you should check out Rosecliff. You might recognize it — completed in 1902, it’s ballroom was used to film scenes for the 1974 film version of ‘The Great Gatsby’ (with Robert Redford and Mia Farrow). Chris and I were lucky enough to attend a ball there — and I must say, going to a ball in a 19th century mansion in a gown and with a handsome Naval officer on your arm CERTAINLY makes you feel like a princess!
3) Polo: If you find yourself in Newport on a Saturday in the summer/fall, take in a polo match. My only experience with polo, was what I’d seen in ‘Pretty Woman.’ And honestly, that portrayal isn’t far off! The Newport International Polo Series features matches of teams from around the world & from major US cities playing against USA / Newport.
We decided to go on a whim to see Team USA vs. Jamaica and were shocked when tickets set us back just $12/person with FREE parking. As people who’ve spent many a Saturday at college football games, these incredibly reasonable prices floored us! We had no idea what to expect. You can essentially tailgate right along the edge of the field as the match is being played. Attire included everything from casual shorts and t-shirts to seersucker, lots of Lilly Pulitzer and big hats. If we were to do it all over again, I’d opt for the latter. And yes, we even went on to the field to ‘stomp the divots’ at half time.
4) Mimosa Cruise on Adirondack II: Newport is a sailing town, called by some the ‘Sailing Capital of the World.’ For 53 years it was home to sailing’s most famous race, America’s Cup. We took friends on the Adirondack II, an 80-foot schooner, for a morning mimosa cruise. We sailed around Narragansett Bay and were entertained with stories about Newport’s history as we saw a bayside view of the mansions, Fort Adams (a 19th century military fort), old lighthouses, even Hammersmith Farm — the childhood home of Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis. Tickets are $32. Mimosas beer and wine are offered for $3-$4 and you’re welcome to bring your own picnic.
5) Newport Vineyards: We took many of our visitors to this winery. Tours are free and last about 30 minutes. A tasting is $12 ($15 if you’d like a wine glass to take) for five selections. The tasting room is gorgeous. After you’ve tried a few wines you can enjoy a glass or two outside amongst the grapevines. My favorites are the Rochambeau, Gemini Red and Dry Rosé.
1) Midtown Oyster Bar: This restaurant is relatively new to the Newport restaurant scene, but arguably my favorite. The atmosphere. The food. The drinks. I love everything about this place. Some of my favorites include: tuna tartare tacos, spicy salmon ceviche, ‘Rocky Point’ clam chowder (Rhode Island style, with a clear broth), mussels frites, grilled Norwegian salmon and the BEST lobster roll in Newport.
If you’re a fan of bubbles (like me), head there on a Tuesday night for Champagne & Shells. From 4pm to 10pm you’ll get 3 complimentary oysters when you order a glass of champagne. Up your game with a bottle of bubbly, and they’ll shuck a dozen oysters for you to enjoy!
2) Perro Salado: We had several visitors when we lived in Newport, and I’m quite sure we took each and every one of them to Perro Salado. The Mexican restaurant is located in the historic Decatur House, built more than 300 years ago!
Anyone who knows me, knows margaritas and guacamole are considered one of my food groups. These didn’t disappoint. The margaritas are fresh and the guacamole is served with chips and fried plantains. Sticky ribs and avocado fries are also popular choices for appetizers. The full menu offers lamb fajitas and ancho chile dusted scallops (to name just a few). I usually ordered the tostada with tamarind braised beef short rib from the ‘Taqueria Menu.’ Just $10 and I usually had more than enough to take home with me.
Portuguese Seafood Stew at Corner Cafe
3) Corner Cafe: this is a great spot for breakfast and brunch (expect a long wait), but they also serve dinner Wednesday through Saturday. The menu changes weekly and is usually posted on their Facebook Page. This was one of our favorite date night spots in Newport. Try to grab a table with a window seat — so cozy! My go-to for dinner is their Portuguese Seafood Stew — its chock-full of mussels, shrimp, cod and chourico in a spicy tomato broth. So delicious. Another plus, it’s BYOB! So pick up your favorite bottle of wine or a 6-pack of New England craft beer before you head that way.
Lobster Special at Benjamin’s
4) Benjamin’s: We went to Benjamin’s our first night in Newport and returned often (it was oh-so-conveniently right across the street from our condo). This spot serves breakfast, lunch and dinner (kitchen is open ’til midnight). You won’t see many tourists here, it’s a favorite amongst locals. The restaurant has three levels for dining. On the first floor (where we usually found ourselves) you’ll find the raw bar and a very casual feel. The second floor dining room is a little more upscale, but offers the same menu. Meanwhile, the third floor (known as the Crow’s Nest) is an open air bar, only open when the weather is nice.
Benjamin’s is a the perfect place to get your seafood fix for a great price. Try the daily ‘Early Bird Special’ – $13.95 for a whole lobster, prime rib or the fish of the day. They also offer ‘Raw Bar Tuesdays’ – $1 oysters, $1 shrimp and 50-cent clams.
5) The Mooring: Arguably one of Newport’s most well-known restaurants, The Mooring sits right on the water. The views are beautiful from nearly every table, but we usually came on a whim (and without reservations) and found ourselves eating at the gorgeous bar (with seating on three sides). Everything we had here was fantastic — from fresh fish to sandwiches. A favorite here is the ‘Bag of Doughnuts’ (lobster, crab and shrimp fritters) dunked in the Classic Mooring Clam Chowder.
Honorable Mentions: Breakfast at Belle’s Cafe, cheeseburger at Mission, ramen at Boru, BBQ pulled pork nachos at Smokehouse, a scoop of Newport Mud ice cream at Kilwin’s
To Drink
1) Castle Hill Inn: A meal at this award-winning restaurant is divine, but you can experience its breathtaking views of the Narragansett Bay for a fraction of a price by having a drink on the lawn. Settle into one of the iconic Adirondack chairs, which are first-come, first-serve. We witnessed a proposal (she said yes!) one of the evenings we visited.
A proposal — she said yes!
Dinner on the deck at Castle Hill Inn
Sunset from the lawn
2) White Horse Tavern: Don’t miss The White Horse Tavern! It’s said to be the oldest tavern in America, around since 1673. The cocktails are delicious (order an Old Fashioned or try the Dark ‘n Stormy), but the bartenders are even better storytellers! I never tire of the tales they tell about this place! If it’s a cold fall or winter evening, cozy up by the huge fireplace in the downstairs bar. Otherwise, head to the upstairs bar and try to nab (what was reportedly) Jackie Kennedy’s favorite table, in a little alcove right next to the bar (the bartenders will know).
3) Wharf Pub: Aptly named, this restaurant and bar is on Bowen’s Wharf. It’s a cozy spot for a meal and is famous for its tater tots (they have five varieties). When we visited our ordered usually consisted of wine (for me), craft beer (for Chris) and the cheese and charchuterie tray to share. We played Bingo here a couple of nights — it was a blast!
4) Norey’s: This bar on Broadway has an impressive beer and wine list. We loved to come here Thursday night’s for live jazz bands.
5) Our rooftop — Several establishments claim to provide the best waterfront views in Newport. And while not everyone can frequent the rooftop at Harborview Condominiums, I’d argue it is home to one of the best views in town. Drinks were pretty cheap to, as we’d just bring them up one flight of stairs from our place! We were SO lucky to have lived here and were happy to share the view with friends and family every chance we got!
Honorable Mentions: Pour Judgement, the tiki bar at Salvation Cafe, Officer’s Club deck at Naval Station Newport (sorry, you can only check out this place if you’ve got access to the Navy base)
This is just a taste of an amazing place. I’d move back to this charming, idyllic city in a heartbeat!
even open for another hour!
We arrived far too late for the tuna auction, as all 120 tickets for the public were gone before 3 a.m. (maybe next time?) Meantime, there are dozens of sushi restaurants open for breakfast. We decided to try our luck at Sushi Dai, considered one of the best in all of Japan.
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